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December 11, 2008

No Whey!
Posted by Hanna Lundqvist

The Wall Street Journal had an article yesterday on the Italian government's decision to bail out struggling Parmigiano Reggiano makers by buying 100,000 wheels of the cheese and donating them to charity.  While I think we can all agree that such bailouts and the misfortunes of Italian cheesemakers are no laughing matter, had this piece appeared in any other paper, I honestly would have thought it was a joke.  Selected quotes are below, enjoy:

The world is bailing out banks and car companies. Italy is coming to the rescue of parmigiano cheese. In an effort to help producers of the cheese commonly grated over spaghetti, fettuccine and other pastas, the Italian government is buying 100,000 wheels of Parmigiano Reggiano and donating them to charity. Though demand for parmigiano is strong in Italy and abroad, producers have been struggling for years to make money, putting the future of Italy's favorite cheese at risk...

"Parmigiano is almost indispensable," says Antonio Piermani, 41 years old, who owns a wine bar in Rome. Mr. Piermani buys three kilos a month, which he grates over pasta dishes. Buying something other than parmigiano, he says, "would compromise the taste of the entire dish."

...Now that the government has stepped in to help parmigiano makers, however, others are making a stink. "We've never received a single dime in state aid," complains Vincenzo Oliviero, who heads the association of buffalo mozzarella producers. Mr. Oliviero says makers of the juicy white cheese eaten alone or on pizza have been suffering since Naples faced a trash crisis last year.

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